This NamePlate is ideal for collars that are 1″ wide.
If you like technical specs, this is Type 316, Marine Grade. Please see the STAINLESS STEEL portion further down on this page.
If you’re looking for a Name Plate for your 3/4″ wide collar, you can find it here: Name Plates for 3/4″ wide Collars
If you’re looking for a Name Plate for your 5/8″ wide collar, you can find it here: Name Plates for 5/8″ wide Collars
I ordered many name plates and was so often disappointed that the engraving was all smushed into the center with most of the name plate blank, or the engraving was barely surface scratched. I finally gave up and decided to make my own. A 30w Fiber Laser Engraver ensures that you will receive a deep and crisp engraving. Your order will be individually designed with care and thought and will NOT be pasted into a predesigned template.
No more noisy clanking, hanging tags that get caught on stuff and/or fall off. This is the totally perfect Name Plate! It is Contoured to hug your dog’s neck and just thick enough not to bend but not so thick that it’s heavy. Dimensions are 2 1/2″ wide and 3/4″ tall.
This Name Plate is designed to accommodate three lines of text. Each line has a maximum of 20 characters (letters/numbers/spaces).
Why you might ask? More than 20 characters makes the text small and difficult to read. The less characters, the larger each one can be and thus easier to read.
Why do we insist on Stainless Steel?
Stronger and Harder than Brass
Does not Tarnish
Doesn’t bend or dent like Aluminum
Doesn’t chip like plastic, lacquered or enameled Name Plates.
Unlike plated Metals, there is no worry about wearing down to the base metal over time.
This Name Plate is Type 316 and it’s superior quality comes at double the cost of other Stainless Steel types.
TYPE 430 Most widely used ferritic stainless steel, offering general-purpose
corrosion resistance Often used in decorative applications
TYPE 304 Withstands ordinary corrosion in architecture Resists most chemicals
An excellent choice for machinery and corrosive environments
TYPE 316 Marine grade stainless for severe environments
For applications that require a higher level of corrosion resistance
It is the preferred steel for use in marine environments.
Each Name Plate comes with 3 Stainless Double Cap Rivets. (an extra in case you make a mistake) These stainless steel rivets securely fasten materials that have a total thickness from 0.09″ to 0.20″. If you have a very thick leather collar, the stainless steel rivets are too short and WILL NOT WORK.
You’re welcome to ignore my ponderings on text choices but…
1. Microchipped – I engrave that a lot. I don’t get it.
If someone (heaven forbid) has found your dog and is reading the name plate, they have your phone number. If you have moved and haven’t updated the phone number on your name plate, odds are you also haven’t updated the phone number on your dog’s Microchip.
All my dogs are microchipped of course, but the only time anyone would need to scan for a microchip is if the dog has no other way to identify her/him. You know… like a Collar with a phone number! 🙂
If your dog isn’t wearing their collar, having a nameplate that says “I am microchipped”, well, uhm… still worthless information.
2. Zip Code – Why? Why Why Why?! Do you think somebody is going to mail your dog back to you?
Apologies if that offended anyone. It’s your name plate and I’ll always engrave whatever you request.
How to attach the Name Plate to your Collar
If you’re handy, installing the Name Plate is simple.
If you’re a klutz…ooops, pardon me. If you’re more brainy than brawny, you may need to ask someone more tool savvy for help.
No worries about “right side up” or “upside down” because both sides of the rivet have lovely round caps.
Place the nameplate on the collar where you want to attach it..
Please remember…(don’t chuckle, just enjoy learning from my mistakes)
1. If your collar has a regular buckle on one end and holes on the other end, leave space at the end of the holes so there is room for the buckle when the collar is fastened.
2. If your collar has an adjustable slide leave space so the slide has room to, well, to slide.
Once you’ve placed the Name Plate, use a pen or pencil to mark through the two Name Plate holes onto your collar strap. It looks best when centered widthwise, not closer to one edge.
Easiest ways to make a hole:
1. Biothane and Leather – Drill ( 1/8″ or 3/16″ bit) or Leather Punch (1/8″ or 3/16″)
2. Nylon – Soldering Iron or Leather Punch (1/8″) – If you use a punch, it’s best to CAREFULLY melt the hole edges so they don’t fray. Many use a round nail to make the hole and to melt the hole edges. They heat the pointy side of the nail CAREFULLY on their stove burner. Lawsuit fears keeps me from suggesting you do this but it does work well. 🙂
With the nail method, an oven mitt or pliers to hold the nail will avoid toasted fingertips.
AHEM: If the holes are too large, the rivets will slip right through them. Your Name Plate will (duh) fall off.
Push a rivet stem through one hole from the bottom side of the collar. Then place your Name Plate’s hole over that rivet stem. Next press a rivet cap over the stem. Press again firmly, making sure top and bottom are aligned, straight up and down and not crooked.
With a solid stationary surface (rubber mats or wood blocks work well) tap the rivet head to “set”. The shaft will spread nicely into the cap if you have them aligned and not crooked.
Use a mallet (rubber and rawhide are perfect) A metal hammer works but might leave an unattractive dent or crease.
Repeat for the hole on other side of the Name Plate.
If you’re truly challenged and not at all handy, please consider a different name plate that doesn’t require punching holes.
Should you have any questions or requests, please don’t hesitate to send me a message. Thank you very much for visiting ! Kitt